Leather is a material used for clothing since ancient times. It is sourced from a wide range of animals such as sheep, deer, cows, horses, and kangaroos. More exotic leathers are sourced from ostriches, alligators, snakes, frogs, and many varieties of fishes. Each type of leather will have its distinctive quality and texture. Factors such as the conditions in which the animal lived—diet, nutrition, climate, or diseases—as well as tanning chemicals, dyes, and stains affect the quality of the leather.
Our helpful guide will help you get a better understanding of the variations of leather, so that your search for your favorite jacket—be it an aviator jacket, a leather bomber jacket, or any other style—becomes easy.
Usually, cowhide, bison, deerskin, goatskin, lambskin, and calfskin are the most commonly used leathers. Let's go through the distinctive characteristics possessed by each one.
Cowhide is the most water-repellent type of leather available and is widely used. It is strong, thick, and durable. It is water as well as dirt-resistant, hence offers excellent protection against harsh weather. To learn more about cowhide's durability, check out our article on The Science Behind the Weight of a Leather Jacket.
Just like cowhide, bison leather is also strong, durable, and an excellent material for jackets and other protective gear. Unlike cowhide, bison has a unique pebbled grain texture that gives a rugged beauty to any leather jacket. It is mainly chosen for its unique look and strength.
Deerskin provides the strength and longevity of cowhide along with a softer, lighter feel. Owing to its elegance and smoothness, deerskin is used not only to craft men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets, but also in handbags and gloves. It is a type of leather that is extremely comfortable.
Goatskin is softer and lighter than cowhide and also very durable. Similar to deerskin, goatskin is smooth and elegant. It also has a unique pebble grain texture. For tips on maintaining goatskin and other leathers, read our guide on Leather Jacket Care and Maintenance.
Lambskin is lightweight and extremely smooth leather. Lambskin is much thinner than cowhide and other leathers, and it offers a charming drape. Many of the finest men's lambskin leather jackets, shoes, and high-end furnishings are crafted using lambskin.
Calfskin combines the strength and durability provided by cowhide with the softness and lightweight of lambskin. It is usually thicker and heavier than lambskin, yet supple and smooth, being functional and fashionable. Discover more about calfskin in our article Understanding Calfskin Leather: A Guide to Its Characteristics, Uses, and Care.
Besides the above, leather can also be classified based on the layer of skin that is used.
The uppermost surface of the hide is the side from which the hair has been taken off. The inner layer is the part of the hide that is actually in contact with the flesh.
Full Grain Leather is the uppermost layer of the hide. It is treated using aniline dyes, which have the capability of being dissolved and do not hide the natural surface of the hide. Sometimes a semi-aniline dye is used, which gives the leather a thin topcoat that serves as protection and averts staining. Owing to the vertical fibers present on this part, it is the strongest and most lasting part of the hide. It helps prevent cracking, peeling, tearing, or puncturing. It has a tight grain pattern, making it resistant to moisture. Full-Grain leather has a distinctive appearance that augments its charm. Markings and irregularities such as scars from brushing against something sharp, insect bites, brand marks, or wrinkles are all intact. The beauty of Full Grain Leather elevates with aging, developing a rich patina over time. It is the only type of leather which ages beautifully.
Though it may sound so, it is not the top layer of the hide but the second layer. Top Grain Leather is the surface of the leather that has been removed by sanding and buffing to eliminate imperfections. The leather has a more uniform appearance. Top Grain leather is widely used for crafting quality goods owing to its thinness, pliability, and greater affordability compared to Full Grain. ‘Corrected’ leather is another alternative of Top Grain leather. It is Top Grain leather that has undergone an exhaustive process of sanding, buffing, stamping, and dyeing to get a more uniform appearance wherein all natural markings have been removed.
Suede is leather made from the inner layer of the hide, the side that is actually in contact with the flesh of the animal. The surface is made to go through sanding and buffing, and the outcome is a suede leather jacket that is softer and more flexible. However, its absorbent surface makes it more prone to staining. Learn how to care for suede jackets in our comprehensive guide on Suede Jacket Care & Maintenance.
Faux leather is a type of synthetic leather made typically using polyurethane or vinyl. The look of faux leather replicates real leather but the cost is considerably less. However, it does not possess qualities of real leather like getting better over time, being naturally stretchable, breathable, resistant to cuts and other erosions, and having a distinctive natural appearance and feel.
Nubuck is similar to suede but is made from the outer side of a hide, giving it more strength and thickness. It has a velvet-like surface and is known for its durability. For more details, read our article on What is Nubuck Leather?
Understanding the different types of leather helps in making informed choices when purchasing leather products. Whether you prefer the durability of cowhide, the softness of lambskin, or the unique texture of suede, there's a leather type to suit every preference and style.